 Elite Mouldings medallions, brackets and art niches are made of solid, rigid polyurethane foam. As a bonus, they come fully primed and painted, and if desired, they readily accept any paint that you choose.
A Ceiling Medallion or Ceiling Centre is the perfect option for anyone who wants to dress up an otherwise boring light fixture or room, especially one with a 9 foot ceiling!. They come in a variety of shapes and sizes to suit everyone?€™s needs. We have an assortment of medallions that match perfectly with our selection of mouldings.
As a rule of thumb, the ceiling medallion should be approximately the same size as the light fixture below. In a narrow space, such as a hallway, consider a small 15 to 20″ diameter ceiling medallion. Dining Rooms or Kitchens often suit a medium sized 25 to 28″ medallion.
Elite mouldings ceiling medallions offer an affordable alternative to high-priced plaster! They are less expensive to buy, ship, and most importantly, install easier with no special skills required. They are also easy to ship and install.
All of our ceiling medallions have 4″ diameter center hole making them adaptable to a ceiling electrical box.
Elite Mouldings Inc. is a leading provider of polyurethane architectural mouldings and architectural elements.
Elite Mouldings products are maintenance free, have deep, crisp, impeccable detail and add both value appeal to any home. Choose from an extensive array of designs and sizes.
Celing Medallions Installation Tips Shipping Specials
The bracket or corbel is one of the most widely used individual architectural features. As purely decorative elements, brackets comfortably bear a heavy burden of architectural ornamentation.
The use of brackets on door-surrounds has been a consistent classical standards since first introduced in early Greek temples where they were used functionally to support the projecting cornice over entranceways.
Always a popular feature for fireplaces, arches, kitchen cabinets, as a divider between two rooms, or as a keystone to be used in a purely decorative role.
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Well chosen trims can have an incredible effect on the look and character of your home for a very small cost. Our trims brilliantly define the character of any room and serve only to enhance the overall beauty of your entire home.
MDF offers the advantages of finger joint pine, without the disadvantages. MDF trims cost less than primed finger joint pine and are available in standard builder lengths. They are 100% defect free with no knots, cracks, splits, raised or torn grain and MDF is more resistant to dings and dents. Additionally, you can drill, rout, saw, nail, cope, screw or shape Elite MDF trims without chipping or splitting. Elite Molding?€™s MDF trims are pre primed with a lacquer-based primer, which provides a clearly superior paint surface to products primed with water-based primer. The result is a smooth finish that requires little paint and almost no sanding to finish.
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Bead Board will give the room a warm comfortable feeling, its beauty lies in its simplicity. It is probably the easiest of all wainscoting to install, regardless of your skill level. Although bead board is fairly self explanatory, it still requires some instruction. This guide will give you some helpful hints and explain some often asked question, so that your installation will look professional without paying professional prices.
Required Tools
- Miter saw
- Table saw
- Tape Measure
- Nail gun with compressor
- Spirit Level
- MDF Glue
- Latex caulking
- Spackling compound (plaster filler)
Prep work
In order to install bead board, you should start by removing the existing base board. The baseboard in newer homes will likely only be nailed; older homes may have a very hard adhesive behind both the baseboards and casings around the doors. This adhesive can be removed using a sander or by hand using a medium grit sand paper. Do not concern yourself with the finish of the sanding as it will be covered entirely with the bead board.
Measuring and Leveling
You should first determine the height of the finished installation. If you have a standard 8 foot ceiling, you should consider a finished height of 36″ from floor to the top of the chair rail. If your ceiling is higher you should consider a height of 42″. The bead board is shipped in 40″ lengths, but it can be cut to the desired length or installed higher up the wall using a spacer at the bottom with the same thickness as the bead board, providing the bottom is no higher from the floor than the base board height.
You should always start on an inside corner. Measure the length of the wall and calculate where you will start in order that the final strip at the end of the wall will not be too narrow to nail up. Before cutting or ripping down any of the lengths, you should check the wall to see how straight the wall actually is; never assume the wall is a perfect 90 degrees. To check this you should take your spirit level and place it on the wall you will be starting from. If the wall is slightly off, draw a straight line down the wall on which the bead board will be placed using your level, this will become your new starting point, you will later cut an angled piece to fill in the gap left over.
Cutting and Nailing
Please note that there is a face and a back to each strip of bead board. Always make sure you are cutting the bead board the right way. The reason for this is simple, each strip will have a lip on both the right and left sides, one is on the face and the other lip is set further back. These lips are not interchangeable and will be used to nail one piece of board to the next.
After having determined the final height and cutting a few pieces down to size, your first strip can either be ripped on the corner side on a 45 degree angle (or the necessary angle required to create the corner) using the table saw or you can use a butt joint (no cutting, just put one edge of a strip against the face of another). The 45 degree table saw method will give you a better finish.
Always nail at an angle of approximately 45 degrees both towards the top and the bottom, creating an “x”, this will fasten the board to the wall whether you hit a stud or not. Try to nail into the crease, in order to hide the nail head better. Remember to set the pressure on the compressor to between 90 - 110 PSI, this will counter sink the nail deep enough to become invisible and easy to cover later. We recommend using a 2″ 18 gauge finishing nail. At this point you can either use MDF glue and nails or just nails to hold up the boards. Using your compressed nail gun, nail up your first strip.
After nailing your first piece, use your spirit level to check the top and the side for trueness. Continue repeating the steps described in the above paragraph until you reach the end of the wall. Follow these steps for the entire room using the table saw to rip the side of the boards to 45 degrees when you hit a corner.
Baseboard Shoe mold and Chair Rail
When a wall is longer than the strip of baseboard or chair rail provided, you should make a 30 degree cut into the end of the one piece and a 150 degree cut to the end of the adjoining piece. Use MDF glue and nails on this joint so as to fasten it tightly. This will give you a seamless joint that can easily be finished later.
The baseboard will be installed flush with the floor or carpet. The baseboard should be cut using a miter saw and it will be nailed in the exact same manner as the bead boards using the “x” pattern.
The shoe mold will be applied to the bottom of the baseboard to give it more width at the bottom. Normally when a hardwood or ceramic tile floor is applied, there are some gaps left for expansion and contraction, the shoe mold will help cover that gap. If you are applying bead board around windows, you should order some more lengths so that you can finish around the window casing. Shoe mold will be cut and nailed the same way as the baseboard.
The chair rail comes notched out in the back in order for it to fit flush when applied to the top of the bead board. It to should be cut with a miter saw in order to create corners. It should be checked with a level before being fastened to the wall and bead board.
MDF glue should be applied to all chair rail corners along with nails.
Sanding and Finishing
Although everything fits flush, there will be small gaps left everywhere (top of base board, top and bottom of chair rail and the top of the shoe mold). These gaps should be filled in using a paint able latex caulking (DAP is the industry name for this). Lay down a bead and clean the excess with a wet rag or your finger.
All corners and seams will be covered with Spackling Compound (plaster filler). Apply a reasonable amount and allow it to dry for an hour. After it dries, go back and sand it down using fine grit sandpaper. The sanding should be done carefully so as not to damage the wood underneath. At this point you can re-prime this area. The nail heads will have been counter sunk and easily visible to the naked eye, using the spackling go over each nail head and fill the remaining space left by the head. The nail heads do not need to be sanded, just finish them with your finger as you go along.
Your bead board is now ready to be painted. It comes primed white and ready to accept any type of paint.
Our Crown Cornice — How We Install It
When choosing a moulding contractor, assume nothing, they are not all the same. Some do not apply the finishing touches like dap (caulking) required before painting. We meticulously dap where the crown meets the ceiling and walls. Other areas that would require dapping would be all inside and outside corners as well as butt joints (where two pieces are joined together).
All brad nails are 2″ (18 gauge) installed in pairs at 45 degrees approximately 16″ apart to ensure fastening into the studs. The nail heads are counter sunk into the moulding and are then sealed and can not be seen. A light sanding is then applied, and the moulding is now ready for it’s final coat of paint. (more…)
Pre Fabricated corners are available only for the SM5-ST. These corner pieces are suited for either a 90 degree inside or outside corners. They are recommended for the first time installer, do-it-yourselfer or anyone who is not comfortable or familiar with a miter saw. Unlike other pre-fabricated corners you may be accustomed to, these corners overlap the molding rather than butt up against it.
Over-lapping offers many advantages: They allow 1/4 of tolerance when cutting trim; if the trim shrinks, the overlap will hide the gap; some find it to be a more interesting look as well.
Wainscot or wainscoting is wooden or other panelling applied to the lower 1.2 to 1.5 m of an interior wall, below the dado rail or chair rail and above the skirting board or baseboard. It is traditionally constructed from tongue-and-groove boards, though beadboard or decorative panels (such as a wooden door might have) are also common. Wainscoting may also refer to other materials used in a similar fashion.
Its original purpose was to cover the lower part of walls which, in houses constructed with poor or nonexistent damp-proof courses, are often affected by rising damp. In countries whose building regulations insist on adequate damp-proofing, its purpose is now generally decorative.
Truly Customizable Wainscoting Systems - Delivered Right to Your Door
 In the days before paint was scrubbable and wallpaper was mass-produced, wainscoted walls served a practical purpose; covering the lowest and most vulnerable portion of a wall. Covering with wood panelling provided an attractive and decorative wall treatment tough enough to withstand cleaning and resist any damages due to everyday use.
Even with today’s modern paint and wallpapers, wainscoting still serves its intended protective purpose; however people use it most often because of the way it transforms a bland space into an elegant room by adding interesting detail to walls that don’t otherwise have any built-in character. (more…)
EliteTrim ™ — An Affordable Alternative to Plaster!
Architecturally Richer Than Wood!
Cornice moulding commonly refered to as cove moulding or crown mouldings has graced cottages and castles alike for centuries. It is uncommon in modern homes mainly because of cost, difficulty of installation and the time it takes to install.
Traditionally, elaborate cornice moulding was either made from moulded plaster, or from solid wood such as Oak, then cut to fit around the room. For a time Paint Grade Pine or Poplar were also a popular choice because any gaps could be filled then covered with paint, whereas flaws in stainable solid wood moulding are harder to mask.
Today’s easy to install, MDF mouldings are easier to finish and offer a variety of decorative profiles. MDF is less condusive to warping and expansion because it has no grain, it also costs less than finger jointed paint grade wood. Elite Moulding has taken this a step further with EliteTrim ™. Using a process adapted from the picture frame industry in Italy, we apply a pattern using a wood paste over standard MDF trim. The result is an architecturally rich trim that’s just as clean and easy to install as standard wood crown moulding. Now there is no need for the high cost and mess associated with installing plaster. All EliteTrim cornices come pre-primed and ready to paint.
Ideal for the new construction and professional remodelling applications.
EliteTrim cornice moulding offers the rich, carved detailing of expensive architectural wood mouldings or plaster, at a much more affordable price. What makes EliteTrim mouldings especially distinctive is the intricacy of the detailed patterns embossed on the face, replicating the opulent carvings of high-end architectural mouldings.
EliteTrim’s white pre-finish primer allows the product to be installed faster while natural wood mouldings are typically unfinished adding time and cost to the job. EliteTrim is made from MDF, which is superior to most solid, paint or stain-grade woods in that it will have no knots, voids, or cracks.
Bed-mould, in architecture, the congeries of mouldings which is under the projecting part of almost every cornice, of which, indeed, it is a part.
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